What is Spiderman Saying?

Here is a prime example of why I will never be bilingual. I have no idea what Spidey is saying here, but I know that "chinga" usually means f***.

Babelfish discreetly avoids the issue and says: "To chinga and the towers!"

Don't Step on the Grass

Here is a photo of a sign in Parque Llano, which is one of my favorite spots in Oaxaca. I like the image of the disembodied foot approaching the innocent clover-like plant. My son, Max, would like to point out that, in order to take this picture, I had to step--just the littlest bit--on the grass. I would like to provide a counterpoint, however, that I was one of un monton de people stepping on the grass and, in fact, there was a whole soccer game going on, couples making out, and some tai chi practice, all on the grass. Still and all, I agree with Max that it is best to keep our disembodied feet away from the grass.

Freaky Cactus at Yagul

Yagul is an incredible place to visit, because it feels so remote. Unlike Monte Alban, Yagul just doesn't get the tourist action pumping through and, wandering around its tombs, labyrinth, and cliffside haunts, you feel like you could disappear without a trace. In this picture, the cactus seems like a security fence, making you take the long way around.

Dia del Virgen at Llano Park

Oaxaca's been going nuts for the Virgen de Guadalupe, setting off firecrackers all night for a week, striking up the band in every other public square, and setting up another impromptu amusement park, this time in the wonderful Llano Park. Llano Park is an incredible gathering place. It seems to me that, since the unrest which was often zocalo-centered has resulted in the increased presence of armed police, Llano Park has inherited the previous zocalo energy. There is a tianguis open-air market every Friday, special events nearly every week, a huge fountain that frequently has children diving into it, fondas serving up memelas and empanadas, a La Michoacana booth, and the endless balloon-sellers, bubble-sellers, and plastic toy-sellers. Pictured here is one of my favorite t-shirts from a stall at the amusement park. I guess Top Cat is known as Don Gato around here. I grew up singing the song "Don Gato was a Spanish cat".

Alien Breathers

We're in the land of the Alebrije, a made-up word that probably most closely translates into alien-breathers. Artists carve figures out of copal wood and then paint them, adding miniscule details with toothpicks and other tools. One of my favorite excursions is taking a colectivo--a collective cab that has a designated route--to Arrazola or San Martin Tilcajete, and visiting alebrije artists at their homes.

Mexico City Blues

We were on the Frida path last week in Mexico City. Though I remembered her house and studio as indigo, it's more of a cornflower blue. Really beautiful. Our cabbie showed us a nearby cafe, El Jarocho, that was surrounded by benches and fauna and packed with people drinking what Steve said was the best coffee he's had in Mexico. I had hot chocolate and enjoyed taking in the sight of crowds arguing and drinking and dreaming.

The Dance of Death

I'm working on an article about Monte Alban for Aishti magazine, and have been researching these sculptures. Though they are called
"danzantes" or dancers, these carvings--over 300 have been excavated--most likely depict captured leaders of neighborhing kingdoms who were castrated and/or disemboweled. Some of the carvings have scroll patterns symbolizing blood. Scholars theorize that the blood would have been used in religious offerings or in fertility rituals.